Fes Day One

Up and out a bit later than planned due to being tired from yesterday. But the breakfast of fresh orange juice, croissants, jam and tea, set us up for a day of exploring.

The Medina was even more confusing that the evening before so we went on a general wander, taking ours chances with the mules, chickens, people, scooters and gangs of stray cats that were milling about.

We managed  to find the Mosque and university, but we couldn't go in as it is reserved for Muslims only. We knew that so were not too put out and managed to peer through the gates anyway. Apparently its thought to be the oldest university in the world.

Some men nearby showed us up to the roof terrace opposite, where we got a good view of the whole city as well as the streets down below. There is much building restoration work going on, courtesy of UNESCO. A portion of the Medina burnt down thirty years ago and they're just about putting it right, using craftsmen and traditional methods.

There are little craft areas all around, with things going on in the streets all amongst everything. We stumbled across a metal working area and watched them for a while, seeing two men making what turned out to be a boiler tank thing. The smaller of the two got in it while the bigger bloke bashed it from outside with a ump hammer. Must have been a great ear experience for the smaller bloke.

We spent several hours wandering before heading back to the riad for a rest. We kept seeing men winding string along a wall and wondered what they were up to, before being told they were making silk for embroidery.

After lunch we set off for the old tombs on the hill that overlooks the city but were hassled by a young bloke called Akmed who insisted on taking us there himself. We couldn't really get out of but we knew we were being set  up for a tip, but there was little we could do about it as he kept following us. But he did take us to where we were going and showed us some interesting stuff on the way, including leather drying in the grass, so it wasn't too bad. However, he then spoilt it by insisting on taking us to his family restaurant where we didn't want to go and demanding we make a reservation. We parted company there, and  he became a bit arsey, but you can only be polite to a certain point.

Then we headed toward the Jewish quarter,through the markets again and  came across the honey street, which was empty, so will go back. Then  we got a bit lost. and ended up in a cemetery where we looked at our rather tatty map. looking at the map. The place was a real mess, but we finally headed in the right direction and stopped in a garden/park with a large lake thing large  and sat down amongst many children and women. We were there only minutes before hassling started again with a young bloke bombarding us with information about the Jewish quarter. At first seemed harmless but is soon became apparent that he was going to do the same thing as the guy this morning so we walked off. he followed us for a while, talking incessantly. We eventually asked him to leave and he too got a it arsey and shouted at us. But he did go.

We found our way to the Jewish Quarter, just as we'd planned and were struck by how different it was. Unlike the Muslim bit of the city, the building here have verandas and widows facing the street. We were learning by now not to be too polite which sounds rude, but its the only way to keep people from pestering. 

We found a synagogue that we wanted to see and an old man let us in and gave us a tour for the princely sum of £1.80. We could probably have got in for free but  haggling  is so boring and annoying that we ether pay or leave. And he was a nice old chap who told us quite a bit and let us into places we were probably not supposed to be in, so it was worth it. He also let us onto the roof for a panorama of the city, which was good.

We did try to get into the cemetery but again some men tried to charge us so we just walked off with them calling us back and offering to lower the price.. no thanks, we're not actually that interested and we're not paying to see dead people anyway.

 We then headed for the palace. We walked along the walls, but there were guards everywhere. and were told to walk on the other side of the road but not before  we got a few sneaky photos of them without them realising. We knew from or trip last year that anything police or military is a very dodgy subject to snap so you have to be sly. An the guards wear colourful uniforms, so its wort the risk and even better if you don't get caught.

The Grand Palace gates were impressive, gold-gilded. and huge Got some almonds from a stall, and asked the guy what was going on. He said the King was in, hence the massive security.  it seems there are 4 different forces at each gate. We then headed back to the old town and got hassled again by a man who wanted us to go to his restaurant, but this time we were firm and declined from the start.

We wandered back through a massive square with swallows darting about in the evening sunshine. They nest in the walls. Tasted some freshly squeezed orange juice which was delicious, before finding our way to the Clock Tower cafe, where we ate.  it describes itself as a 'cross cultural cafe' with Moroccan stuff being central, and it was a really good place to find. by coincidence, it was open mike night, and there were various people there playing guitar and jamming, which was good.